Friday, July 08, 2005
Kauai, July 2005
In honor of Annie's PhD, Chris, Jonathan, and Bob accompanied her to Kauai. Visiting the Rugged Na Pali coast is the high point of a summer trip to this location (in the winter, the north receives 50-foot waves, a discouraging factor for travelers).
We took the trail that starts at Ke'e Beach and leads west along the coast. Like most hikers, we stopped at Hanakapiai Beach, two fairly challenging miles to the west. We got an early start, but the beach and the trail filled up later. It's one of the few hard trails that we have used where congestion is a significant factor slowing you down. The most aggressively worded signs at the beach tell you that entering the water will bring instant death from drowning as the surf carries you far out to sea. We did not try, but quite a few others went in for a few feet. There was delicious bathing the the fresh-water stream where it crossed the beach.
Bob and Jon hiked another two more challenging rock-hopping miles up the stream to Hanakapiai Falls, a worthy visit. The guidebook suggested total solitude in the area, but it was full of hikers. The stream makes some classy pools below the falls, perfect for cooling off.
To continue along the coastal trail from Hanakapiai, you need a day-use permit. This fact is omitted from all guidebooks and is only disclosed on a big sign as you start the hike in Ke'e. Of course, the permit is issued only in Lihue, 1.5 hours behind you. We had investigated hiking one way to Kalalau, the ultimate desirable destination of a visit to the Rugged Na Pali Coast, but the Authorities do not allow any boat operators to land at Kalalau any more. It's 10.8 pretty hard miles from Ke'e to Kalalau and would not be practical as a round trip.
The two ways to get to Kalalau are to backpack in and out along the trail or to kayak. We say many kayakers on both of our visits to the coast.
Our other approach to the Rugged Na Pali coast was on an enlarged zodiac-type watercraft. We came from the western side of the island at Waimea. If you sit in the bow end of the boat, you get totally wet from bouncing through the waves, but with warm water and humid air, it's not unpleasant. Fabulous views of the cliffs. OK snorkeling.
This trip involved the same four people as a memorable trip in 1987, when Jon was three. On that trip, we spent several hours at Kalalau, hiking and swimming. Not allowed any more, thanks to overcrowding.
We took the trail that starts at Ke'e Beach and leads west along the coast. Like most hikers, we stopped at Hanakapiai Beach, two fairly challenging miles to the west. We got an early start, but the beach and the trail filled up later. It's one of the few hard trails that we have used where congestion is a significant factor slowing you down. The most aggressively worded signs at the beach tell you that entering the water will bring instant death from drowning as the surf carries you far out to sea. We did not try, but quite a few others went in for a few feet. There was delicious bathing the the fresh-water stream where it crossed the beach.
Bob and Jon hiked another two more challenging rock-hopping miles up the stream to Hanakapiai Falls, a worthy visit. The guidebook suggested total solitude in the area, but it was full of hikers. The stream makes some classy pools below the falls, perfect for cooling off.
To continue along the coastal trail from Hanakapiai, you need a day-use permit. This fact is omitted from all guidebooks and is only disclosed on a big sign as you start the hike in Ke'e. Of course, the permit is issued only in Lihue, 1.5 hours behind you. We had investigated hiking one way to Kalalau, the ultimate desirable destination of a visit to the Rugged Na Pali Coast, but the Authorities do not allow any boat operators to land at Kalalau any more. It's 10.8 pretty hard miles from Ke'e to Kalalau and would not be practical as a round trip.
The two ways to get to Kalalau are to backpack in and out along the trail or to kayak. We say many kayakers on both of our visits to the coast.
Our other approach to the Rugged Na Pali coast was on an enlarged zodiac-type watercraft. We came from the western side of the island at Waimea. If you sit in the bow end of the boat, you get totally wet from bouncing through the waves, but with warm water and humid air, it's not unpleasant. Fabulous views of the cliffs. OK snorkeling.
This trip involved the same four people as a memorable trip in 1987, when Jon was three. On that trip, we spent several hours at Kalalau, hiking and swimming. Not allowed any more, thanks to overcrowding.
